Brafree hillbilly : MIDIY controller pt. III

First boot, flawless victory.  Each button results in the desired ASCII characters, (numpad 1 - 7)

in this slide you'll see twist ties
Ignore the twist ties.

+power switch rewired finally

+jerk knot in placed notch

-the serious longest part is making a bottom case piece for this hot mother.

and, apparently, getting glovepie to do as i command.



two days later....



+glovepie
Emulates an infinite number of output signals and stuff.  Runs scripts to (for my purposes) accept numpad1 - numpad7 and connect to MIDIOX as a virtual MIDI output.

+MIDIOX
*Midi input / output monitor, GUI routing, signal generation, the jesus christ of MIDI.  Helped me diagnose bade glovepie code and troubleshoot inputs / outputs via real time monitoring of MIDI traffic.

+MidiYoke
Necessary for the whole tube steak to fornicate.  Gives glovepie a (virtual) midi in / out to target after specifying the stimuli required to make.


After googling around for a while I found enough glovepie script to get everything to function with no interference.  Or none that I've noticed.

Midiox setup

I forgot to save my log from this morning, 

when I got everything working.  

Before I ran to slave wage.  

Picture is of proper setup, all the log did was display how many trials it took me to realize how simple the whole thing had to be.  

midi yoke1 (or whatever input you're midi mutating) is set as an input port, and sent to the eleven rack.  That's it.
i had the midiox signal generatior set up to troubleshoot and diagnose the spaghetti butt fuck i visualized.
midiox also detected the eleven rack banks and channels, or it simply had native bank/channel integration.  either way i'm fucking impressed.

Glovepie script

//code breakdown
*Code shown as is from the last second I wrote a functioning line FUCK

debug = midi.OutDevName - displays emulated midi output specified by line 2
midi.DeviceOut=2 - emulated midi output--device numbers are listed under a dropdown
swallow(numpad1) - swallow allows glovepie to take exclusive control of specified keys r whtvr
swallow(numpad2)
swallow(numpad3)
swallow(numpad4)
swallow(numpad5)
swallow(numpad6)
swallow(numpad7)
midi.channel1.Control36 = Keyboard.NUMPAD3/127 - midi.channel1.control36 (output signal, spec'd channel, cc for eleven rack control, desired input, 127 being ON pos for CC number.  0 being off.


So when I push button 3 on the foot controller, it turns 11R reverb on and off.  Or just off, over and over.  glovepie allows for conditional statements and stupid functional shit allowing for ifthen and wait and .... whatever.
Since the buttons are seriously old, being constructed as a spring loaded short circuit, I want to disable multiple triggers with a sustained press of the input buttons.  Liek when you fall asleep on the keyboard and it types a bunch of yyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy
we wish to avoid the flickering.

war

to asshole to asshole : DIY MIDI controller cont'd

00

USB to PCB connection, twain severed.  Reason is top mount power switchwitchhhhh

Brain PCB mounts chassis in brutal dominance display.
See angry switch of fury pounce through gratuitous hole.  Notice incorrect american wiring.

*I always have to do each job twice

Also included in this exhibit are terrible tape junctions of singularly connecting synapses.

Top view chassis. 

+power switch

+LED holes

+

Being out of solder is a bummer.

Until I break my tiny anxious egg and fall into some outlet that steals all the money for low grade solder, I'm reduced to using odd bites in the solder pencil tray.  woe.  

+reshaped B6 and B7 terminal holes

-rewire power switch terminals

-join switch and USB connector leads

--longest and most difficult task of finishing structural components and chassis.  

PENIS BUTTONS FOREVER

if you want to buy a number of penis buttons, send email to address of mine.  

from organs to assholes. : DIY midi foot controoler

I decided, on a whim, to build a midi footswitch for the Avid 11R / Propellerhead reason.
Using this idea
and parts from the Allen organ I vulched from pustulous scrabs.

List of ingredients:
2x aluminum housing.  Or one, if you have a complete square guy.  I'm fabricating an interlocking top and bottom in order to make future maintenance easy.
2x jumper PCB (4 terminal, reclaimed from PA speakers)
1x USB keyboard brain (I used an old dell keyboard)
1x IDE cable
1x togggle switch.  I'm using a computer PSU I / O toggle.
xx strand wire; copper.  I think what I used came from a television.
xx hardware.  I used matching sets of what I had on hand from vultch.
xx any other necessary shit you necessary.


Started by not taking pictures of initially gathered components
which included regular lame stomp pedal switches that didn't look like tiny erect penis
then, decided to change components when I found the loose organ kicks

These sketches are my initial attempts to disentangle the cable routing and jumper setup. 

Notice I never look at these again after drawing them.

Aluminum housing post hole driller / hand tooling.  The holes are for kicker leads. 

Here you see the keyboard brain with strips of IDE cable soldered to traces that would normally be connected to the plastic terminal sheets in the keyboard.

determining correct pinout was no difficult;
-assign unique numbers to each pin
-plug brain in to a computer
-open notepad
-record pin combinations associated with desired ASCII characters.

IDE cable was recommended due to lead size.  virtually perfect for soldering to keybrain.

Kicker studs of penis shape with coded leads in a fine cream sauce

 Top view with the kicks on, screws in.  power switch absentee

Kickies soldered to jumpers and brain.  I listerally ran out of solder on the last joint. 

 What remains is the bottom chassis portion (parts acquired, need cutsman), brain mount (50% complete), power switch on the USB +5 rail, brainlights hole, some expansion over square terminal access holes.   It's hot for testing right now.  Except I cut the +5 rail on brain connection after solder stores were depleted by hardcore nuclear solder sesh.
I'll update.

Herkbercks Mark II

Recently having decided to build a midi foot controller, I needed the stomp switch that was controlling the fan on board my speaker load sim.
Which meant for me, redesigning the cabinet load sim. housing.
I've wanted to do this for a while; while the last one was grungy as fuck, space future looks better.

+Thermal glue under the original circuit to bind it with a ~4x4x4ish inch fin cube heat sink from dream land

+rewire circuit with insulated copper braid

+wire jack (original jack to the speaker load, self-terminating pins removed.  Resulting jack is dual terminal T/S. )

+Drill jack hole in second heat sink fin thing

+cut notches in fin thing sides

+Boosh --k - k - k - killzone

ongo troubshoo

Hey.
Everything sounds cool, better every time I check it out and touch it's bits.
Except I found a broken solder joint in my guitar that was sucking tone or losing signal entirely. Fixed that.
Gotsum popin' cracks once in a while; going to see what resistors still in 'er are still carbon composition and replace them with scavenged resisterrrrrrrrrrrrr
I think there was a problem with my main cable, as well, that I fixed.  oooooor

more than that, I have nothing for you.  It has been incredibly busy in the hyperbolic chamber.
My XLR cable might be noisy due to cheap.
11R XLR MIC in might have cold joint.  Expression.  

Mouser finally sent components I placed order months ago, expression.  some capacitors for the power pcb.  probably replace.



blog easy.

Sick for two days

and then a day more

I had this crushing space vacuum headache that sauntered down vertebrae  and lathered itself in my knees.

reboot

Off base but on track

Hey, so...
When I started this, I was two weeks through literally becoming this amplifier,
Once I resurrected my tiny demon, I allowed myself catch up on the parts of my life (all) that suffered because of the obsessive monkey; my back aclaw.

In that space of time I have been able to play guitar again--
sweet fucking christ...
and with that I have been able to establish hard communication between the Avid 11R and Propellerhead Reason, my preferred DAW.
This involved a lot of experimentation with the 11R PAD switch (-24db attenuation) and Diablo -30db / 0db switch.
In my experience, I'll forget how hard knobs are set or bump a sensitive knob, hah, and subsequently spend two days trying to figure out how it was positioned.  As such I wanted to leave the gain allllll the way down on the 11R XLR in.  Pad switch position not important, easy error to fix once it finds a proper attitude.
What I ran in to as far as problem:.:;;;;

-amp signal from XLR out too low or clipping during manipulation of -30db switch.  Too loud in the headphones or too quiet, no comfortable position across 11R master volume control
*Avid 11R Rig balancing was the final finger hole for this one.  Set at like -12db or something.
Set to 0db (max clockwise).
Set Diablo to -30db on XLR out.
Set 11R PAD off.
Set 11R MIC gain off (max counterclocks)
Bingo
levels with distortion are halfway up the channel monitor,  Sound liek God.

From there it's been all gens d'arms and dicks stitches.

I have been speaking with the engineer who designed our flavorite favor of amp, less frequently than I would like to have be the truth, Though he is unable to support modifications to the amplifier, our discourse has been very informative.  So I plan on doing something with that in the near future.

&Probably going to make soundbites available for fun or something.

&Maybe videos

&more pictures

tired.