Rather than playing it : Active pickup voltage increase

Been reading about adding a second battery to active guitar circuitry--
apparently you can just slap a second battery in series with the existing cell, and you get magic attack boost and laser strings.

there is also information on further increasing to 24v, but all pertinent information is in regard to EMG active picups; according to the manufacturer, you won't get as dramatic a magic between 18v  to 24v as you do 9v to 18v.

*extra six volts are achieved by some form of adapter whatever 12v batteries whatever

pictured :
-9v battery
-velcro
-9v terminal, prepped for installation
-two position / nine terminal toggle switch

quarter for perceive














Since I pulled (the volume and tone pots out of) my rod, there's plenty of room for an extra battery.



*I hate using a noise gate for anything but removing tube hiss.  seriously, I effing hate it.  therego, one of existing body hole become cut-switch.  easy peasy wtfe.



cut switch is a hot lead to ground switch, as opposed to power snap k-k-k-k-k-k-k--killszone

*Insulate the battery casing.  It's steel.  If your battery becomes dislodged in the main compartment and shorts something delicious, it'll burn your beans on the grill.  seriously.  don't chance it. velcro strips are cheap and easy to strap on like fake dick.

+prep cavity for new cell (sticky shit, velcro)

+measure distance from battery to inner compartment plate

+attach appropes foam thick for to support batts

+Appropriately wire terminals of switchbob

She works.

But I've rediscovered Prior Problema that drove me for a while - 

Farty clipping through any interface. 

Even at the lowest gain settings,  padded way down

Straight to the amp

And through the M13

I had fixed the situation

Whence first the problem arose
by reading a reputable book or journal and creating a source page.  

that a passive volume pedal was the cure,

It was in spades

that

prior setup was : 

Guitar >vol>M13> computer : crystal clear and free of parasites

this allowed me to practice with headphones and without the need to use the EDstack.

But along the way the ernie ball VP Jr  potentiometer begin to disassemble itself and was cut for insubordination, purpose forgotten. 

Not realizing tone had been compromised by great lover, continued to chase clipping through amplifier components and in-line effects. 

Now having completed  construction of  monolithic recording interface, again  is realized that tone has remorseful clip directly from guitar. 

18v mod will supposedly quash pup clipping, however it failed to do so for EMG 81/85 setup.
with 2x spanking Sony 9v (9.67v ondameeter)

Again the VP was called upon to attenuate signal.

Totally worth increasing voltage to 18v. 

This will not be contested. 

Sounds are infinitely cooler and more dynamic. Headroom is crazy. No tube noise discernible when running high gain and not playing.  

After being taken completely apart and rewired to permattenuate hot hot signal,  and plugging in properly (multiple times backward,  beforehand) signal chain clips free. 

*If you have active EMG pickups, it's worth all the time it takes to add a second 9v.

*If your active EMG pickups sound farty and distorted, even when you're on a clean channel, with minimal gain --
you have clip.  Figure out how to simulate the potentiometer or buy a replacement potentiometer and wire it in a juice carton.  Tone will be thank.

***Also realized I had marked R1 on Preamp pcb as bad, it was so totally like 0.whatever ohms.  and I was like, you should be 1M.  so i dug through some shit and found a metal film .96whateverM and I'm about to test it. Porbus the source of chassis noise I've been getting from preamp valve one, because it sits right in front of it.  makes sense.

Udate:: new 1M resistor at prepcb R1 does not cure clipping from 81/85 18v combo. Difference with  VP JR is slightly decrease volume with no clipping.

Ultimate answer (chpmode) is buy the potentiometer and stick it in a box. Or the T-pad thing; get resistances from both sides of the pot and user resistors.  Since i had the components on hand it was simpler. Fuck off. 

G.g.

Jesus take the wheel : active guitar pickups and removing those pesky volume and tone potentiometers

Volume and tone pot useless

only stand to add possible component failure or maladroit

remove ASAP

if you have active pickups and you pull the rear cover of your geetr, you'll notice the bullshit wiring inside.  duh.  

it usually looks like shit, and that's because it is.  no exceptions.  

To your (my) output jack, you've got three wires - 

-black lead from the battery compartment

-black lead from wherever

-white lead from (3 pos) switch

switch has four terminals, 

as illustrated by mspaint (photoshop).

*output is determined by switch position, center egnages both internal terminals which results in allowable signal both pickup escape escape

Procedure:

+trace pickup leads to compartment, and back, and back again.  

+locate main positive and negative circuit connections

+locate grounds that will be disconnected when pots are removed

+remove (cut) volume control

+remove (lick) tone control

+twist and solder negative circuit leads to pickup braid where prior grounding (via tone pot chassis) has been broken.  This is probably where I'm actually soldering to a shielding or ... whatever, and it works, but probably not for the right reason, and I'd love to know why, but I don't care right now.  email me.  

To fill the teeth knocked out of her, grabbed some organ parts, peryoush.  

Little buttony bore adaptations

to make her pretty in public

and not dirty inside

I'll admit I tried this before replacing two power capacitors (Power PCB C11, C12) this evening

+replace C11, Power PCB

+replace C12, Power PCB

first test - no ground on pickup leads, so no signal.  

+scratched head

then I just figured I'd try gator clipping things together until I figured it out,

+and I figured it out.  

second run

bridge switch pos - bridge pickup noise, works.

middle pos - blend noise, works

neck pos - neck pickup noise, works

*active pickups are, apparently, less magnetic than passive pickups, and work best when the pickup is really fucking close to the strings.

+raised pickups

shifty eyes.

aslo

*if you're adding tension to your output jack, don't just mash the whole arm toward the male pin; push the curled part (toward the ghostly male phallus) as an alternitive.  It will work instead of not.  

Glovepie II : pie rise - script for controlleer

It took nearly twelve hours to figure out scripting for glovepie.
But I got it.

entirely yours,
glovepie script--

//numpad to midi
debug = midi.OutDevName //Display midi device
midi.DeviceOut=2  /

Swallow (numpad1, numpad2, numpad3, numpad4, numpad5, numpad6, numpad7)

toggle(midi.channel1.Control50) = NUMPAD1/1 //mod
toggle(midi.channel1.Control28) = NUMPAD2/1 //delay
toggle(midi.channel1.Control36) = NUMPAD3/1 //reverb
toggle(midi.channel1.Control63) = NUMPAD5/1 //fx1
toggle(midi.channel1.Control86) = NUMPAD6/1 //fx2

//A1 (my dirty cabinet patch)
if numpad4 then
if var.prog1 > 1 then
var.prog1 = 1 - 1
midi.instrument = var.prog1;
end if
end if

//A2 (my clean cabinet patch)
if numpad7 then
if var.prog1 < 1 then
var.prog1 = 1 + 1
midi.instrument = var.prog1;
end if
end if


Given how many people are using their stupid fucking wii controllers to do things via glovepie, you would seriously think that the information would be easily accessible.

A1 and A2 above are in references to eleven rack patches.   Because it utilizes a series of banks and patches to store rigs, program change commands are used to achieve swap in hyperspace.
I got all souped in to having figured out the CC strings and took myself down a dark road, eventually victorolling.

So all that's left is the underbelly of my penis button snake--
except for getting glovepie to display all keyboards, sequester the foot controller, and program it in.  boosh.  kkkillzone.

Pie gloves jr : Glovepie scripting 1.5?

TOGGLE!

Continuing on in the script, the toggle function has proved most useful.

without toggle;
midi.channel1.Control36 = NUMPAD3/1
(to engage 11R reverb)
turned the effect on for as long as the button was held.
then off

toggle fix.

toggle(midi.channel1.Control36) = NUMPAD3/1

Brafree hillbilly : MIDIY controller pt. III

First boot, flawless victory.  Each button results in the desired ASCII characters, (numpad 1 - 7)

in this slide you'll see twist ties
Ignore the twist ties.

+power switch rewired finally

+jerk knot in placed notch

-the serious longest part is making a bottom case piece for this hot mother.

and, apparently, getting glovepie to do as i command.



two days later....



+glovepie
Emulates an infinite number of output signals and stuff.  Runs scripts to (for my purposes) accept numpad1 - numpad7 and connect to MIDIOX as a virtual MIDI output.

+MIDIOX
*Midi input / output monitor, GUI routing, signal generation, the jesus christ of MIDI.  Helped me diagnose bade glovepie code and troubleshoot inputs / outputs via real time monitoring of MIDI traffic.

+MidiYoke
Necessary for the whole tube steak to fornicate.  Gives glovepie a (virtual) midi in / out to target after specifying the stimuli required to make.


After googling around for a while I found enough glovepie script to get everything to function with no interference.  Or none that I've noticed.

Midiox setup

I forgot to save my log from this morning, 

when I got everything working.  

Before I ran to slave wage.  

Picture is of proper setup, all the log did was display how many trials it took me to realize how simple the whole thing had to be.  

midi yoke1 (or whatever input you're midi mutating) is set as an input port, and sent to the eleven rack.  That's it.
i had the midiox signal generatior set up to troubleshoot and diagnose the spaghetti butt fuck i visualized.
midiox also detected the eleven rack banks and channels, or it simply had native bank/channel integration.  either way i'm fucking impressed.

Glovepie script

//code breakdown
*Code shown as is from the last second I wrote a functioning line FUCK

debug = midi.OutDevName - displays emulated midi output specified by line 2
midi.DeviceOut=2 - emulated midi output--device numbers are listed under a dropdown
swallow(numpad1) - swallow allows glovepie to take exclusive control of specified keys r whtvr
swallow(numpad2)
swallow(numpad3)
swallow(numpad4)
swallow(numpad5)
swallow(numpad6)
swallow(numpad7)
midi.channel1.Control36 = Keyboard.NUMPAD3/127 - midi.channel1.control36 (output signal, spec'd channel, cc for eleven rack control, desired input, 127 being ON pos for CC number.  0 being off.


So when I push button 3 on the foot controller, it turns 11R reverb on and off.  Or just off, over and over.  glovepie allows for conditional statements and stupid functional shit allowing for ifthen and wait and .... whatever.
Since the buttons are seriously old, being constructed as a spring loaded short circuit, I want to disable multiple triggers with a sustained press of the input buttons.  Liek when you fall asleep on the keyboard and it types a bunch of yyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy
we wish to avoid the flickering.

war

to asshole to asshole : DIY MIDI controller cont'd

00

USB to PCB connection, twain severed.  Reason is top mount power switchwitchhhhh

Brain PCB mounts chassis in brutal dominance display.
See angry switch of fury pounce through gratuitous hole.  Notice incorrect american wiring.

*I always have to do each job twice

Also included in this exhibit are terrible tape junctions of singularly connecting synapses.

Top view chassis. 

+power switch

+LED holes

+

Being out of solder is a bummer.

Until I break my tiny anxious egg and fall into some outlet that steals all the money for low grade solder, I'm reduced to using odd bites in the solder pencil tray.  woe.  

+reshaped B6 and B7 terminal holes

-rewire power switch terminals

-join switch and USB connector leads

--longest and most difficult task of finishing structural components and chassis.  

PENIS BUTTONS FOREVER

if you want to buy a number of penis buttons, send email to address of mine.  

from organs to assholes. : DIY midi foot controoler

I decided, on a whim, to build a midi footswitch for the Avid 11R / Propellerhead reason.
Using this idea
and parts from the Allen organ I vulched from pustulous scrabs.

List of ingredients:
2x aluminum housing.  Or one, if you have a complete square guy.  I'm fabricating an interlocking top and bottom in order to make future maintenance easy.
2x jumper PCB (4 terminal, reclaimed from PA speakers)
1x USB keyboard brain (I used an old dell keyboard)
1x IDE cable
1x togggle switch.  I'm using a computer PSU I / O toggle.
xx strand wire; copper.  I think what I used came from a television.
xx hardware.  I used matching sets of what I had on hand from vultch.
xx any other necessary shit you necessary.


Started by not taking pictures of initially gathered components
which included regular lame stomp pedal switches that didn't look like tiny erect penis
then, decided to change components when I found the loose organ kicks

These sketches are my initial attempts to disentangle the cable routing and jumper setup. 

Notice I never look at these again after drawing them.

Aluminum housing post hole driller / hand tooling.  The holes are for kicker leads. 

Here you see the keyboard brain with strips of IDE cable soldered to traces that would normally be connected to the plastic terminal sheets in the keyboard.

determining correct pinout was no difficult;
-assign unique numbers to each pin
-plug brain in to a computer
-open notepad
-record pin combinations associated with desired ASCII characters.

IDE cable was recommended due to lead size.  virtually perfect for soldering to keybrain.

Kicker studs of penis shape with coded leads in a fine cream sauce

 Top view with the kicks on, screws in.  power switch absentee

Kickies soldered to jumpers and brain.  I listerally ran out of solder on the last joint. 

 What remains is the bottom chassis portion (parts acquired, need cutsman), brain mount (50% complete), power switch on the USB +5 rail, brainlights hole, some expansion over square terminal access holes.   It's hot for testing right now.  Except I cut the +5 rail on brain connection after solder stores were depleted by hardcore nuclear solder sesh.
I'll update.

Herkbercks Mark II

Recently having decided to build a midi foot controller, I needed the stomp switch that was controlling the fan on board my speaker load sim.
Which meant for me, redesigning the cabinet load sim. housing.
I've wanted to do this for a while; while the last one was grungy as fuck, space future looks better.

+Thermal glue under the original circuit to bind it with a ~4x4x4ish inch fin cube heat sink from dream land

+rewire circuit with insulated copper braid

+wire jack (original jack to the speaker load, self-terminating pins removed.  Resulting jack is dual terminal T/S. )

+Drill jack hole in second heat sink fin thing

+cut notches in fin thing sides

+Boosh --k - k - k - killzone