With the discovery of one op mode not working, I am now questioning whether or not I boggled the toggle for it.
Yes, I was touching it's joints up.
Yes, I forgot what I was doing.
Yes, whatever.
This morning in the post I received a set of 470 K / 1 Watt resistors I'll be throwing in position R26 and R2.
I may or may not have torched C11 when installing.... fucking cold solder joints which were my fault every time and I'm not patient and have bad posture and also my breath is bad sometimes.
*The center two power valves ( V4 and V5 from left to right) are the first tube pair.
*The leftmost power valve (V6) and the rightmost power valve (V7) are the second tube pair.
Just found a broken solder joint on the XLR pcb feedback connector.
+resolved and reflowed broken joint
+replaced R26, R27 (270K)
Removed the op mode switch from the amp and gator clipped the terminals several different ways.
When connecting to one point, random resistance popups spammed my dome
+alcohol toothbrushed the assholes of the op mode switch, measurements now consistent.
+moved CN wires to rightmost terminals to prevent interference via tension.
*Photos of stock switch/pcb setup show that a tech more than likely discovered an issue with the switch, as I did, but didn't attempt to clean the terminal contacts. Instead, the terminals were switched. Poor form. Always try to clean your switches before you toss or utilize different positions as a workaround. This will prevent future problems with your equipment, fucking duh.
Rebooting system
.
..
...
.
..
...
New tubes inserted sensually, bias points engage, master volume down, 100w op mode, helmsman go go go go.
bias reads .8 but I get that. Was using a combo of JJ's and EH, of which I have no designation for bad or ugly. Chopped it with the bias trim pot and, blammo, proper voltage across a matched quad of JJ's.
IN THE HEADPHONES
Ground hum. Significant loss of input signal.
Which suggests a grounding issue to me duhhhhhh
which is kinda back to square one
which I was dreading before the bias voltage scrapeskied.
Unplugging CN-IN and CN-1, still getting ground and chassis noise, eliminating the input pcb as suspect uno.
&Here, I've disengaged the PAD switch on the 11R and turned the gain all the way up. This amplifies the noise created when I tap on the chassis, in turn chasing geese, but it's a good way to approximate the problem area. I'm frenetic and bounce the house, corner to corner, and shit the whole way. The noise is full bass and slight pinging, around the first tube pair (V5, V6)
Notice bad GND pin joint on XLR pcb.
Late.
so tired
Work tmrrw.
Yes, I was touching it's joints up.
Yes, I forgot what I was doing.
Yes, whatever.
This morning in the post I received a set of 470 K / 1 Watt resistors I'll be throwing in position R26 and R2.
I may or may not have torched C11 when installing.... fucking cold solder joints which were my fault every time and I'm not patient and have bad posture and also my breath is bad sometimes.
*The center two power valves ( V4 and V5 from left to right) are the first tube pair.
*The leftmost power valve (V6) and the rightmost power valve (V7) are the second tube pair.
Just found a broken solder joint on the XLR pcb feedback connector.
+resolved and reflowed broken joint
+replaced R26, R27 (270K)
Removed the op mode switch from the amp and gator clipped the terminals several different ways.
When connecting to one point, random resistance popups spammed my dome
+alcohol toothbrushed the assholes of the op mode switch, measurements now consistent.
+moved CN wires to rightmost terminals to prevent interference via tension.
*Photos of stock switch/pcb setup show that a tech more than likely discovered an issue with the switch, as I did, but didn't attempt to clean the terminal contacts. Instead, the terminals were switched. Poor form. Always try to clean your switches before you toss or utilize different positions as a workaround. This will prevent future problems with your equipment, fucking duh.
Rebooting system
.
..
...
.
..
...
New tubes inserted sensually, bias points engage, master volume down, 100w op mode, helmsman go go go go.
bias reads .8 but I get that. Was using a combo of JJ's and EH, of which I have no designation for bad or ugly. Chopped it with the bias trim pot and, blammo, proper voltage across a matched quad of JJ's.
IN THE HEADPHONES
Ground hum. Significant loss of input signal.
Which suggests a grounding issue to me duhhhhhh
which is kinda back to square one
which I was dreading before the bias voltage scrapeskied.
Unplugging CN-IN and CN-1, still getting ground and chassis noise, eliminating the input pcb as suspect uno.
&Here, I've disengaged the PAD switch on the 11R and turned the gain all the way up. This amplifies the noise created when I tap on the chassis, in turn chasing geese, but it's a good way to approximate the problem area. I'm frenetic and bounce the house, corner to corner, and shit the whole way. The noise is full bass and slight pinging, around the first tube pair (V5, V6)
Notice bad GND pin joint on XLR pcb.
Late.
so tired
Work tmrrw.
Hello G. ghostboy, do you copy? I need your help. If willing, will you please send me contact info to lilac-wine@live.com If you do not wish to help, I understand completely. Would you be willing to send me the schematic to the El Diablo 100? Thank you kindly.
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